Text: Julia Niles | Photography: Tara Kerzhner
As a mother, guide, and counselor, Julia Niles carries significant responsibilities. Inspired by her friend Em Pellerin, she decided to climb the towering cliffs of Chile’s Cochamo Valley. Julia immerses herself in the mountains, finding balance, strength, and a connection to herself through climbing.
We acknowledge that the Cochamo region of Chile is located on the traditional territory of the Mapuche people, whose historical presence and stewardship have helped shape the area.
Cochamo Valley, Chile | Mapuche Territory
“Climbing has saved me before—”
and it might just do so again. ”
Last fall, Amy texted me from Bishop: “What was the name of that book you mentioned about women with autism? Also, I think we should go to Cochamo in January.” We’ve been exploring our own neurodiversity (or what we like to call “neuro-sensitivity”), as well as the autism spectrum conditions of those we live with. Amy knew I’d been swamped.
I’m a mountain guide, a clinical counselor, and a single mom to a son with autism and a daughter who may also have autism. Over the past few years, I’ve felt like a Tasmanian devil caught in a tornado, scrambling frantically between life’s responsibilities, demands, and necessities. Mountain trips and personal goals were pushed to the back burner. Life was no longer joyful; instead, it had become chaotic and aimless.
But Em (whose real name is rock climber Emily Pellerin) is always beaming with a bright smile. Last summer, she moved in with our family and brought boundless energy to our home. She invited me to all sorts of activities—forest parties, bouldering, dancing, gymnastics in the park, and more. Even though I had a long list of “must-dos” and couldn’t shake the “mom effect”—that constant feeling of never doing enough for my kids—her invitations made me feel truly included. I knew I needed something to help me rediscover my best self. Em’s invitation to go to Cochamo was a huge inspiration. Rock climbing had saved me once—maybe it could save me again.
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Climber Em Pellerin (left) and climbing guide Julia Niles (right)
A Budding Friendship: Mending Fences
I met Em during a film shoot in Arizona the previous year. Her radiant smile captivated me, and her willingness to show her goofy side made me fall completely in love with her. She isn’t the kind of professional climber who takes herself too seriously. We found common ground while scrambling up the scree slope toward the sandstone towers. There was something about Em that reminded me of a quiet part deep within myself: the part that can focus on what I love, free from worry, and draw inspiration from endless possibilities. The ease and joy she radiates stem from her introspection and compassion.
“This will be a unique mission. Of all the photography, film, and expedition work I’ve been involved in, this is the first time there will be more women than men.”
I knew I needed Em by my side, so I reached out to my friend and mentor, Amy Barnes, who has dedicated her life to supporting women and helping them succeed and thrive in the mountains. When we returned to Squamish, British Columbia, Em mentioned she needed a place to stay, so I invited her to stay with us. I knew she would have a positive influence on me and my family. Plus, she’s an amazing cook.
Finding Paradise
Both Amy and I are great at adapting to changing environments. It’s an essential quality for a guide. However, packing and preparation quickly overwhelm us. Whether it’s autism or ADHD—it doesn’t really matter. As adults, we have to find a way to cope.
Packing for Kokamo was no different. Amy had a new partner to help her with the littl
e things, while I was running on pure panic. We teased each other as we rushed past mountains of gear that still needed to be stuffed into our bags by 6 a.m. the next morning. My daughter, Eva, came to the garage to help pack. “Why are you bringing a emergency blanket?” she asked. So we tested the blanket’s warmth by wrapping her up like a present, wasting precious preparation time in the process. I was flustered, trying to stay calm and keep her company, while
